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Reactivity is often seen as ANTI-SOCIAL behaviour, but it can in fact be OVERLY SOCIAL as well!

The OVERLY SOCIAL DOG reactive Dog Don't let someone fool you when they tell you their dog is "friendly" when the dog is in fact the rudest dog on the planet!

Running up to greet your dog, being IN HIS FACE, maybe even jumping on your dog or you, without proper and calm mutual introduction.....

This is an over-excited greeting that may look friendly but in reality, the dog is making very poor choices, racing up to other dogs who may not be at all comfortable with this type of approach and may include obsessive face licking, squeaking or barking, pulling towards other dogs.

Such a dog actually tends to be socially awkward and may not know what a proper greeting cycle looks like.

This kind of interaction can easily lead to a tussle or even a full-on fight, and then we tend to blame the dog that is just defending itself, even though the instigator is the "friendly but over-the-top" approaching dog.



The ANTI-SOCIAL DOG reactive DOG This dog may show signs of shying away, staring, growling, barking, lunging and offering DISTANCE INCREASING behaviours ( and that can include proactive lunging to make the other party back away....) Most of their communication is to try to tell other dogs that they need more space and to please leave them alone.

They are easily overstimulated and pushed over their comfort threshold and tend to easily panic into reactive bluster instead of being able to think and learn and feel comfortable. This often explosive interaction leads us to feel embarrassed and lost as to how to act and what to do. When we do not know what to do, we often resort to "correct" the unwanted display with a stern voice, or forcing the "offender" into a sit, to face its worst fear. Of course, this is most likely going to backfire, and perpetuate the cycle of fear, as the person they rely on to help them is making the situation worse by Flooding the dog and actually forcing them to "face their fears" So what can we do to help reduce reactivity?

  1. Creating calmness in the body and mind through relaxation games will help the reactive dog to be able to "think" through a problem. Teaching your dog to settle on a bed or mat to teach them to calm themselves.

  2. Make good use of pattern games which are simple actions or patterns that you and your dog can do together to help reset the brain to working mode while rehearsing well-practiced patterns that the dog finds familiar and calming. You can also use pattern games to pass distractions or let your dog get more comfortable.

  3. Counterconditioning exercises, where the dog starts to associate the triggers with pleasant or calm things instead of excitement or fearful things. That will be a game-changer! Simple games such as COOKIE BOWLING and LOOK AT THAT make up a small portion of the change.

  4. Our smart use of rewards and pacifiers ( food, toys, touch, voice, praise, movement and functional rewards) will help as well. Pay the dog well for making efforts that are NOT COMPATIBLE with the unwanted behaviours, and there will be a change in the behaviour, as it is true what they say: YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR!

  5. And Management is another important piece. Not putting your dog in situations their brain is not ready for or getting out of trouble rather than letting your dog continue to rehearse poor choices.

Remember, reactivity is your dog COMMUNICATING through body language! Our job as pet parents is to READ and UNDERSTAND our dog's needs TEACH them how to do better and PROTECT them from physical or mental harm.

Distance is always your dog's best friend when it comes to reducing your dog's overly emotional and inappropriate reaction!

There is HOPE for all reactive dogs! Best Paw Forward and DAWG Academy offer training opportunities to help reduce stress, put your dog's brains to work and improve canine communication that allows them to make better choices. We are Fear Free Behavior Modification Coaches and BCSPCA Animal Kind Certified and would love to help make the world a better place for you and your dog!


Keep your dog safe! Create Distance until you know what to do and do it better!

 
 
 

My worst nightmare happened to me just the other day.

While driving I see a dog running into traffic right in front of me.

The dog escaped from its car and is running away from her person, who is frantically chasing it and calling the dog to come back. Of course, I slam on my brakes, while other motorists just keep driving by, most not even slowing down even after activating my emergency lights and pulling onto the shoulder. This is a recipe for disaster.


Here are some tips that may well save the dog's life:


  1. Don't chase the dog!!!! This can lead to the dog running into traffic. Even if they know you, this is a game dogs play (keep away) or you may just outright scare them!

  2. Instead, run away to where you want the dog to go! Make a fuss and run in the direction you want the dog to come.

  3. If you have it, sprinkle food down to calm the dog (and yourself) once you are away from imminent danger and be generous!

  4. Stay calm and work the dog towards you (not you towards the dog). If you have food, slowly toss it closer to yourself.

  5. Try not to face the dog head-on, but turn sideways. This reduces the conflict of having to approach.

  6. Show interest in something on the ground, pick up a pinecone and play with it. Toss a treat up and down.



Dogs that are in a heightened state of arousal, regardless if it is fear or excitement induced, are not able to think very well. Our goal is to slow down their brains so they can start to think and make better choices. Calm body motions and voice versus erratic panic display, and the use of food, will certainly increase your chances of securing the dog and keeping them around you.


Once the dog is calming, here are some options to help secure and grab the dog:

  1. Reach a hand down low, towards the chest (well under the chin) don't touch the dog, just keep feeding, drop food on the ground, or toss towards the dog if the dog is too fearful or hesitant to take it from the hand. You can even place your hand on the ground and scatter some treats around it.

  2. Once eating and within reach, calmly extend your hand and touch but don't grab, and do not stop feeding. Ideally, you would touch a few times or let the dog bump into you. If this is accepted, try some little scratches or pets. The dog may step away then reduce the motion and let them come back and try again.

  3. Once they accept touch you can slide fingers along the body to secure the dog's collar/harness and keep feeding.

  4. Breathe!!!!


This can take many minutes, and it may feel like an eternity!


If the dog does NOT want to come closer:

  • Maybe the dog can hop into your car, and opening the car door may well help them access a space they like or consider safe, you can offer this option as most dogs are familiar with riding in a car (even if it's not your dog!)

  • If the dog cannot eat but is calming down a bit you can offer to play with a toy! Some dogs will instantly come racing over to play! Make it easy for the dog and tie the toy to a leash to make it more enticing! Dogs love to chase bunnies, and most dogs will enjoy chasing a toy on a string or rope. If no toy is readily available many dogs love to play with a sock. At the very least they will take a moment to sniff it out!

  • Lower your body down, make yourself smaller, but don't encroach on the dog's space, almost ignore them and pretend to have fun, make them curious as to what you are doing!

  • Make a treat trail to where you want the dog to go, then move well aside so you are not too close to scare the dog away.

  • Grab another on leash dog to provide the social connection and help the dog move to safety by following the other dog. Or they can help create interest by feeding the dog, playing with it etc.

  • Grab a bag or other item that crinkles like a food bag.

  • Move slowly, stop often, lower yourself to prevent scaring the dog. Even try sitting or lying down casually on the ground.

Once the dog is secured and returned to his person, it is time to rethink RECALL STRATEGIES as well as your EMERGENCY STOP and work on perfecting your skills and those of your dog in a situation that is not urgent, dangerous or quite so stressful! Remember to PRACTISE FOR THE SITUATION, NOT IN THE SITUATION.

Best Paw Forward and DAWG offers both "Recall" and "Emergency Stop" training options at the training centre or in real life!


 
 
 

Let's start with the short answer. "No."


Why not?

Would you let a stranger approach and grope your children? No? Well then maybe a stranger should also not reach for your dog until you and your dog have a chance to get comfortable with that person.


Remember, it's not only for dogs that are unsure or shy but also those that would rehearse jumping up and other frustrated greeting behaviours. If you don't want your dog to rehearse unwanted behaviours, make sure you set up interactions so you can train what you do like.


Dogs do not live in the same world we live in.

Am I crazy for saying that? Not really. Humans experience things mostly visually, we see and make decisions based on that. Dogs, on the other hand, live in a scent-oriented world. Until they can freely sniff and explore a new thing/person/ situation without feeling pressured or stressed, they are often not able to make calm decisions based on visual input alone.


How do you effectively stop people from approaching and touching your dog?

If you say: " No please, no interaction" Will people do what you ask?

People hear what they want and are often already approaching your dog's space before they ask if they can interact. Many do NOT listen to instructions and will follow up with: "Oh but all dogs love me." or "I know what I'm doing."


Using words like "Please do not pet my dog" and "Maybe do not approach" are not strong enough for people to listen.


Be a force of nature! Guide your dog behind you and say the following 6 words: "Dog in training, need extra space" People will understand that you need a bit of help and will be more willing to support you!


Don't forget you can always step in front of your dog to cut off the approach to help keep distance between your dog an people you are not ready to interact with.


When is it ok for a stranger to pet your dog?

Let your dog choose who they want to go see and interact with. They need to be able to give consent. This is a crucial step that ensures your dog is not put in a situation they are uncomfortable with.

Start by asking the stranger to turn around, and stand still. This takes away the pressure of an unsolicited approach. Let your dog sniff the backs of the legs (if they want to approach) and they will tell you if they like the person and want more, or are good to leave it at that!


If your dog is indicating they like the person, use the five-second rule. Pet the dog for 5 seconds then take your hands off. Does the dog stay or turn back to you and ask for more? If the dog wants to engage further, great! 5 seconds more. Do they wander away? Good, that means they have had enough.


We often like to do too much touching, often too invasive and too controlling. Give the dog more freedom to move away. Even if the dog was ok with a sniff and a brief touch, that doesn't mean they want your face in their face and a full-body hug.


Make strangers respect the dog's space

This will prevent additional stress for you and your dog. That stress could lead to unwanted behaviour such as jumping up, nipping or shying away and could undermine the bond of trust between you and your dog! Keep in mind everyone has their own personal bubble and they have the right to decide who comes into that space. Or they are so excited that they throw themselves at people and we just don't need to rehearse the dog not respecting other people's space. It all depends on what your dog is comfortable with and ready for. But the gist of it is DON'T BE AFRAID TO SAY "NO".


If you need help with inappropriate greeting behaviours, teaching people what to do to greet in a more appropriate manner or helping your dog feel more comfortable around other people, please reach out to us for lessons or classes.

 
 
 
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